Evaporator Coil Cleaning (A-Coil Cleaning)
An evaporator coil, also known as an a-coil, is an integral part of your cooling systems that is often neglected while you are cleaning the system. Commonly it is thought that if the filters are clean there is no need to check the coil. It is a wrong perception that may be a root cause of many problems your system may have to face if you neglect the issue of evaporator coil cleaning. Even if the filters are clean the evaporator coil can still be dirty and be polluting the air you breathe.
A dirty a-coil can be root cause of many problems; here are four main reasons for which you should consider cleaning evaporator coil on regular basis:
1. Increased Efficiency: With a dirty evaporator coil efficiency of the system declines and you feel it is not cooling same way as before.
2. Shorter Run-times: It takes more than usual to start.
3. Low Electricity Bills: Longer runtimes and burden on the system caused it to consume more electricity which is the reason for huge electricity bills. A clean evaporator coil may save you up to 15% of energy your cooling system consumes with dirty coil.
4. Good Air Quality: If the evaporator coil is dirty and air flow is reduced it causes same air to circulate in the house again and again with many pollutants putting your health at stake. Air indoors is polluted with many visible and invisible pollutants including dust, dirt mites, pollens, pet dander, molds, bacteria and viruses. While air is circulated the evaporator coil accumulates these particles as the coil fins are densely located.
Dirt and debris on the evaporation coil hinder the air flow thus blocking it and causing your heating and cooling system to work much harder. A reduced air flow means cooling capacity of the system has decreased which causes extra burden on the system. The system starts consuming huge energy to cool the room or building posing a burden on your pocket. If you still neglect the situation it causes the air to cool to such a low temperature that it condenses over the coil and leads to what is known as evaporation coil frost thereby completely blocking the coil.
Usually your air conditioning system gives clear indications when the evaporation coil is dirty. Following is the checklist that clearly states that now is the time to clean the evaporation coil:
* Efficiency of the system is decreased
* Less air is coming out of vents
* Head and suction pressure rises
* Electricity bill increases with same usage of cooling system
The issue of evaporator coil cleaning is of great importance when you are having pets at home or living in an area where construction is taking place. An annual evaporation coil cleaning can keep you and your family safe!
Monday, May 31, 2010
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Is air duct cleaning worth it
Is Air Duct Cleaning Really Worth It?
Many people are still wondering if they should have their air ducts cleaned. Well, let me try to paint a picture of why it is necessary. First of all, imagine if you never had them cleaned, say 20 years. Personally, I have seen air duct systems that have never been cleaned, and let me tell you it is not a pretty site.
First of all, cold air (or intake) registers will be caked with dust whereas your furnace will have to work extremely hard because of the restricted air flow from the registers and the air duct leading to the furnace filter.
Second, you will have to replace the furnace filter more often obviously as well.
Third, your flower fan will get so caked with dust that your blower motor will probably burn out after about 10 years, maybe less.
Fourth, all this dust is getting inside the heating elements of the furnace causing it to clog up, which reduces the efficiency and will need to be replaced long before it should if it were cleaned out along with the air ducts.
Fifth, if you have central air, you have air conditioning coils located above the furnace. These will get dusty as well costing you extra money on your electricity bills.
Sixth, you will have billions of dust mites in your air ducts along with a variety of other contaminants which can cause allergies, asthma and other illnesses.
So, in conclusion... If you don't want to save money on your gas and electric bills, extend the life of your furnace, and breathe cleaner air, by all means, never have your air ducts cleaned out.
Top Class air duct cleaning provides professional air duct cleaning and furnace cleaning service. You can visit the website www.topclassair.com or call at 416-628-1070 for more information.
Many people are still wondering if they should have their air ducts cleaned. Well, let me try to paint a picture of why it is necessary. First of all, imagine if you never had them cleaned, say 20 years. Personally, I have seen air duct systems that have never been cleaned, and let me tell you it is not a pretty site.
First of all, cold air (or intake) registers will be caked with dust whereas your furnace will have to work extremely hard because of the restricted air flow from the registers and the air duct leading to the furnace filter.
Second, you will have to replace the furnace filter more often obviously as well.
Third, your flower fan will get so caked with dust that your blower motor will probably burn out after about 10 years, maybe less.
Fourth, all this dust is getting inside the heating elements of the furnace causing it to clog up, which reduces the efficiency and will need to be replaced long before it should if it were cleaned out along with the air ducts.
Fifth, if you have central air, you have air conditioning coils located above the furnace. These will get dusty as well costing you extra money on your electricity bills.
Sixth, you will have billions of dust mites in your air ducts along with a variety of other contaminants which can cause allergies, asthma and other illnesses.
So, in conclusion... If you don't want to save money on your gas and electric bills, extend the life of your furnace, and breathe cleaner air, by all means, never have your air ducts cleaned out.
Top Class air duct cleaning provides professional air duct cleaning and furnace cleaning service. You can visit the website www.topclassair.com or call at 416-628-1070 for more information.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Information on different air duct cleaning methods
Power Vacuum/Air Sweep method:
Average equipment value being used to perform an air duct cleaning: $50,000.00-$150,000.00 worth of machinery and equipment
According to NAIMA this method of cleaning is the most thorough form of cleaning a ventilation or HVAC system to deliver the lowest particulate count exiting an HVAC system. Actual air studies by a reputable international organization, such as NAIMA has conclusively proven that this in fact occurs in a ventilation system, which of coarse should be a no-brainer because if particulate matter was merely stuck to the sidewalls of ductwork and did not in fact circulate, then mechanical engineers would have never invented a furnace filter. How many HVAC service technicians have instructed you to never use a furnace filter? Probably, not too many, right? That is because it has been known for several decades that dirt, dust and debris will always circulate in a forced air ventilation system. Fortunately, most people are not completely unaware of this problem and have realized that occasional HVAC system cleaning can produce very good indoor air quality results when performed thoroughly and correctly.
Now that we logically know that forced air systems which moves air in a ventilation system not only moves the air inside of the ductwork, but the fine micron particulate matter that science had previously proven existed floating around with that same air, we can get on to the various cleaning methods that tries to tackle the build up problem that time will cause in a forced air ventilation system.
Top Class Air Duct Cleaning using heavy vacuum and compressor equipment for clean out your air duct system. www.topclassair.com
Power Vacuum/Air Sweep method:
Average equipment value being used to perform an air duct cleaning: $50,000.00-$150,000.00 worth of machinery and equipment
According to NAIMA this method of cleaning is the most thorough form of cleaning a ventilation or HVAC system to deliver the lowest particulate count exiting an HVAC system. Actual air studies by a reputable international organization, such as NAIMA has conclusively proven that this in fact occurs in a ventilation system, which of coarse should be a no-brainer because if particulate matter was merely stuck to the sidewalls of ductwork and did not in fact circulate, then mechanical engineers would have never invented a furnace filter. How many HVAC service technicians have instructed you to never use a furnace filter? Probably, not too many, right? That is because it has been known for several decades that dirt, dust and debris will always circulate in a forced air ventilation system. Fortunately, most people are not completely unaware of this problem and have realized that occasional HVAC system cleaning can produce very good indoor air quality results when performed thoroughly and correctly.
Now that we logically know that forced air systems which moves air in a ventilation system not only moves the air inside of the ductwork, but the fine micron particulate matter that science had previously proven existed floating around with that same air, we can get on to the various cleaning methods that tries to tackle the build up problem that time will cause in a forced air ventilation system.
Top Class Air Duct Cleaning using heavy vacuum and compressor equipment for clean out your air duct system. www.topclassair.com
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
It is important to have tightly sealed ductwork in your house. This will prevent air leakage and also will prevent contaminants from entering the ductwork and circulating through the home. This is achieved by carefully air sealing all duct seams. This also helps to balance the pressure of airflow through the ducts.
Cleaning
Debris often ends up in your home's ducts through the registers. Unless removed, fine particles from the debris, which can be respiratory irritants, can circulate within the ducts and enter a room through the registers. Ducts should be cleaned and vacuumed to remove any particles that may have entered during construction or over time.
Here are answers to some common questions about duct cleaning.
Q: A company that gave me a quote for duct cleaning said that for an extra fee, they would apply some anti-microbial spray to keep fungus and mold from growing inside the ducts. Is this a good idea?
A: Ask any company who offers the treatment to explain what risks, if any, are associated with their recommended treatment. Ultimately, the choice is yours.
Q: Duct cleaning seems expensive. Can I do it myself for less?
A: The duct cleaning companies use very specialized equipment not normally available to consumers. However, much of the dirt in ducts accumulates near the vents or registers. You can remove the vents with a screwdriver and vacuum as far as you can reach. (Many people have lost vacuum cleaning accessories in their ducts this way, so you might want to tape the vacuum cleaner accessories together before you start sticking them into the ducts!)
Q: Will changing the filters in my system prevent the ducts from getting dirty in the first place?
A: Not only will changing your filters regularly help keep your ducts and air cleaner, it also will save you money on your utility bills and extend the life of your system. Depending on conditions in your home, replace the filters every month or two.
Q: I've seen some fancy filters at the hardware store that claim to clean out much more dirt than regular filters. Do they work?
A: The good news is that the "high-tech" filters are indeed effective at removing dirt from the air. The bad news is that they may cause your furnace to overheat because the furnace counts on a certain amount of airflow to cool itself. Less air gets through the high-tech filters. You can try one of the filters and see what happens. If the furnace keeps cutting on and off every few minutes, it is probably not getting enough air and the safety switch is cutting it off. If this happens to you, go back to your regular filters.
Q: My doctor suggested I get an electronic air cleaner to reduce dust and mold in the air. Where do I get one?
A: These units come in both portable and central units. Portable units can be purchased at many home centers, hardware stores and department stores. To treat the entire house, have a professional heating and air-conditioning company install a central unit.
Visit Top Class Air Duct Cleaning to Schedule your duct Cleaning online.
Cleaning
Debris often ends up in your home's ducts through the registers. Unless removed, fine particles from the debris, which can be respiratory irritants, can circulate within the ducts and enter a room through the registers. Ducts should be cleaned and vacuumed to remove any particles that may have entered during construction or over time.
Here are answers to some common questions about duct cleaning.
Q: A company that gave me a quote for duct cleaning said that for an extra fee, they would apply some anti-microbial spray to keep fungus and mold from growing inside the ducts. Is this a good idea?
A: Ask any company who offers the treatment to explain what risks, if any, are associated with their recommended treatment. Ultimately, the choice is yours.
Q: Duct cleaning seems expensive. Can I do it myself for less?
A: The duct cleaning companies use very specialized equipment not normally available to consumers. However, much of the dirt in ducts accumulates near the vents or registers. You can remove the vents with a screwdriver and vacuum as far as you can reach. (Many people have lost vacuum cleaning accessories in their ducts this way, so you might want to tape the vacuum cleaner accessories together before you start sticking them into the ducts!)
Q: Will changing the filters in my system prevent the ducts from getting dirty in the first place?
A: Not only will changing your filters regularly help keep your ducts and air cleaner, it also will save you money on your utility bills and extend the life of your system. Depending on conditions in your home, replace the filters every month or two.
Q: I've seen some fancy filters at the hardware store that claim to clean out much more dirt than regular filters. Do they work?
A: The good news is that the "high-tech" filters are indeed effective at removing dirt from the air. The bad news is that they may cause your furnace to overheat because the furnace counts on a certain amount of airflow to cool itself. Less air gets through the high-tech filters. You can try one of the filters and see what happens. If the furnace keeps cutting on and off every few minutes, it is probably not getting enough air and the safety switch is cutting it off. If this happens to you, go back to your regular filters.
Q: My doctor suggested I get an electronic air cleaner to reduce dust and mold in the air. Where do I get one?
A: These units come in both portable and central units. Portable units can be purchased at many home centers, hardware stores and department stores. To treat the entire house, have a professional heating and air-conditioning company install a central unit.
Visit Top Class Air Duct Cleaning to Schedule your duct Cleaning online.
Friday, May 21, 2010
What is Included in a Professional Home Inspection
Top Class Air Duct Cleaning provides Professional home inspection.
* The Home Inspection: the inspector will examine (essentially visually) the physical condition of the building and its mechanical systems and at other conditions that may affect the building (such as site drainage) and will provide a written report.
* A Written Home Inspection Report: There is too much information, some of it possibly involving significant cost or important safety findings, for any professional to provide an "oral only" home inspection. The inspection findings must be provided in writing. We use the Home Reference Book which is delivered at the end of the inspection. Other inspectors may provide a typed narrative report or an annotated "checklist" report. Any report form can be acceptable provided it is clear, thorough, and sufficiently detailed.
Watch out: A so called home inspection "report" which is a simple "ok" or "not ok" checklist, or a sort of "inventory" (Asphalt shingle roof, vinyl siding, concrete block foundation) is really just an "inventory" of building material types. As an inspection for costly or dangerous defects such a report is totally inadequate and does not meet the standards of practice for the profession. All home inspection findings will be written in your report. What the inspector tells you orally at the inspection must agree exactly with what's written in your report, and vice versa. If you receive an oral warning of something costly or unsafe, that information should appear clearly in the written report too.
* Ancillary tests which are not required by the home inspection standards of practice may nonetheless be offered by your inspector, such as water or septic testing, or a termite or radon inspection or test. These are discussed below.
* Time and Attention at the Property: You should accompany the inspector (me) and look, listen, and ask questions. Be prepared to spend 3-4 hours at the property. Be sure your real estate agent knows how long you expect to be at the property and that they let the property owners know as well. The time required to inspect a building is not fixed. But if I were inspecting an easy one-family house in good condition, and if I were working alone, with no one to ask questions or chat with, it would still take me at least 2 1/2 hours simply to direct my attention to every item and system on a building that needs my consideration. If I allow for the presence of my client who will have questions or who needs to hear explanations, the process is easily 3 hours or longer for a detailed, thorough, inspection.
The time required to inspect properly depends not only on building size but on the age and complexity of the structure and its mechanical systems as well as the ease or difficulty of access to various systems and components. But if your inspector is scheduling inspections at odd times like "11:15 to 12:10" or if the inspector is spending an hour and a half at a property, unless it's a very small and simple structure, you might wonder what shortcuts are being taken.
* A home inspection fee: Fees for the inspection and any other services are usually payable at the site, usually by personal check. An invoice will be provided. Readers should be sure to see How Much Should You Pay For Professional Services? where we explain the costs of hiring a too-cheap home inspector or any other service.
* Follow-up consulting: In our professional home inspection or environmental inspection and testing practice, there is no fee for follow-up questions in clarification of the inspection report. In fact we like you to call to ask questions - it increases the value of our service, and the feedback makes us better at our job. Some inspectors feel differently and may discourage follow-up conversations or email. An inspector who knows your property and who is committed to protecting your interest should be willing to discuss the report or even future problems that may come up.
* The Home Inspection: the inspector will examine (essentially visually) the physical condition of the building and its mechanical systems and at other conditions that may affect the building (such as site drainage) and will provide a written report.
* A Written Home Inspection Report: There is too much information, some of it possibly involving significant cost or important safety findings, for any professional to provide an "oral only" home inspection. The inspection findings must be provided in writing. We use the Home Reference Book which is delivered at the end of the inspection. Other inspectors may provide a typed narrative report or an annotated "checklist" report. Any report form can be acceptable provided it is clear, thorough, and sufficiently detailed.
Watch out: A so called home inspection "report" which is a simple "ok" or "not ok" checklist, or a sort of "inventory" (Asphalt shingle roof, vinyl siding, concrete block foundation) is really just an "inventory" of building material types. As an inspection for costly or dangerous defects such a report is totally inadequate and does not meet the standards of practice for the profession. All home inspection findings will be written in your report. What the inspector tells you orally at the inspection must agree exactly with what's written in your report, and vice versa. If you receive an oral warning of something costly or unsafe, that information should appear clearly in the written report too.
* Ancillary tests which are not required by the home inspection standards of practice may nonetheless be offered by your inspector, such as water or septic testing, or a termite or radon inspection or test. These are discussed below.
* Time and Attention at the Property: You should accompany the inspector (me) and look, listen, and ask questions. Be prepared to spend 3-4 hours at the property. Be sure your real estate agent knows how long you expect to be at the property and that they let the property owners know as well. The time required to inspect a building is not fixed. But if I were inspecting an easy one-family house in good condition, and if I were working alone, with no one to ask questions or chat with, it would still take me at least 2 1/2 hours simply to direct my attention to every item and system on a building that needs my consideration. If I allow for the presence of my client who will have questions or who needs to hear explanations, the process is easily 3 hours or longer for a detailed, thorough, inspection.
The time required to inspect properly depends not only on building size but on the age and complexity of the structure and its mechanical systems as well as the ease or difficulty of access to various systems and components. But if your inspector is scheduling inspections at odd times like "11:15 to 12:10" or if the inspector is spending an hour and a half at a property, unless it's a very small and simple structure, you might wonder what shortcuts are being taken.
* A home inspection fee: Fees for the inspection and any other services are usually payable at the site, usually by personal check. An invoice will be provided. Readers should be sure to see How Much Should You Pay For Professional Services? where we explain the costs of hiring a too-cheap home inspector or any other service.
* Follow-up consulting: In our professional home inspection or environmental inspection and testing practice, there is no fee for follow-up questions in clarification of the inspection report. In fact we like you to call to ask questions - it increases the value of our service, and the feedback makes us better at our job. Some inspectors feel differently and may discourage follow-up conversations or email. An inspector who knows your property and who is committed to protecting your interest should be willing to discuss the report or even future problems that may come up.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
nteresting!
A refresher course–who knew?
I had a neighbor who had bought a new pickup. I got up very early
one Sunday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red
all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason).
I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news. He was very upset
and was trying to figure out what to do. Another neighbor came out and
told him to get his WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint
beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck.
I’m mpressed!
WD-40 who knew?
Water Displacement #40.
The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile
parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego
Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a
water displacement’ compound.
They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Corvair Company bought it
in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts.
Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40
that would hurt you… IT IS MADE FROM FISH OIL
When you read the ’shower door’ part, try it.
It’s the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If
yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass. It is a miracle!
Then try it on your stovetop… It is now shinier than it has ever been before.
1) Protects silver from tarnishing.
2) Removes road tar and grime from cars.
3) Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.
4) Gives floors that “just-waxed” sheen without making it slippery.
5) Keeps flies off cows.
6) Restores and cleans chalkboards.
7) Removes lipstick stains
8) Loosens stubborn zippers.
9) Untangles jewelry chains.
10) Removes stains from stainless steel sinks.
11) Removes dir t and grime from the barbecue grill.
12) Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing.
13) Removes tomato stains from clothing.
14) Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots.
15) Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors.
16) Keeps scissors working smoothly.
17) Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in omes
18) It removes black scuff marks from the kitchen floor! Open some windows if you have a lot of marks.
19) Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car. Removed quickly, with WD-40!
20)
Gives a children’s play gym slide a shinefor a super fast slide
21) Lubricates gear shift on lawn mowers.
22) Rids kids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.
23) Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open
24) Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and lose.
25) Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers.
26) Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles.
27) Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans.
28) Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling.
29) Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly.
30) Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and oher tools.
31) Removes splattered grease on stove.
32) Keeps bthroom mirror from fogging.
33) Lubricates prosthetic limbs.
34) Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).
35) Removes all traces of duct tape.
36) Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to rlieve arthritis pain.
37) Florida ’s favorite use is Cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers.’
38) Protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements.
39) WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a LITTLE on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no time
40) Fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch
41) WD-40 is great for removing Crayon from walls. Spray on the mark and wipe with a clean rag
42) If you’ve washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry, saturate the lipstick spots with WD40 and rewash Lipstick is gone!
43) If you spray WD-40 on the distributor cap, it will displace the moisture and will allow the car to start
44) Keep a can of WD-40 in my kitchen cabinet over the stove. It is good for oven burns or any other type of burn.
It takes the burned feeling away and heals with NO scarring
Remember, the basic ingredient is FISH OIL
A refresher course–who knew?
I had a neighbor who had bought a new pickup. I got up very early
one Sunday morning and saw that someone had spray painted red
all around the sides of this beige truck (for some unknown reason).
I went over, woke him up, and told him the bad news. He was very upset
and was trying to figure out what to do. Another neighbor came out and
told him to get his WD-40 and clean it off. It removed the unwanted paint
beautifully and did not harm his paint job that was on the truck.
I’m mpressed!
WD-40 who knew?
Water Displacement #40.
The product began from a search for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect missile
parts. WD-40 was created in 1953 by three technicians at the San Diego
Rocket Chemical Company. Its name comes from the project that was to find a
water displacement’ compound.
They were successful with the fortieth formulation, thus WD-40. The Corvair Company bought it
in bulk to protect their atlas missile parts.
Ken East (one of the original founders) says there is nothing in WD-40
that would hurt you… IT IS MADE FROM FISH OIL
When you read the ’shower door’ part, try it.
It’s the first thing that has ever cleaned that spotty shower door. If
yours is plastic, it works just as well as glass. It is a miracle!
Then try it on your stovetop… It is now shinier than it has ever been before.
1) Protects silver from tarnishing.
2) Removes road tar and grime from cars.
3) Cleans and lubricates guitar strings.
4) Gives floors that “just-waxed” sheen without making it slippery.
5) Keeps flies off cows.
6) Restores and cleans chalkboards.
7) Removes lipstick stains
8) Loosens stubborn zippers.
9) Untangles jewelry chains.
10) Removes stains from stainless steel sinks.
11) Removes dir t and grime from the barbecue grill.
12) Keeps ceramic/terra cotta garden pots from oxidizing.
13) Removes tomato stains from clothing.
14) Keeps glass shower doors free of water spots.
15) Camouflages scratches in ceramic and marble floors.
16) Keeps scissors working smoothly.
17) Lubricates noisy door hinges on vehicles and doors in omes
18) It removes black scuff marks from the kitchen floor! Open some windows if you have a lot of marks.
19) Bug guts will eat away the finish on your car. Removed quickly, with WD-40!
20)
Gives a children’s play gym slide a shinefor a super fast slide
21) Lubricates gear shift on lawn mowers.
22) Rids kids rocking chairs and swings of squeaky noises.
23) Lubricates tracks in sticking home windows and makes them easier to open
24) Spraying an umbrella stem makes it easier to open and lose.
25) Restores and cleans padded leather dashboards in vehicles, as well as vinyl bumpers.
26) Restores and cleans roof racks on vehicles.
27) Lubricates and stops squeaks in electric fans.
28) Lubricates wheel sprockets on tricycles, wagons, and bicycles for easy handling.
29) Lubricates fan belts on washers and dryers and keeps them running smoothly.
30) Keeps rust from forming on saws and saw blades, and oher tools.
31) Removes splattered grease on stove.
32) Keeps bthroom mirror from fogging.
33) Lubricates prosthetic limbs.
34) Keeps pigeons off the balcony (they hate the smell).
35) Removes all traces of duct tape.
36) Folks even spray it on their arms, hands, and knees to rlieve arthritis pain.
37) Florida ’s favorite use is Cleans and removes love bugs from grills and bumpers.’
38) Protects the Statue of Liberty from the elements.
39) WD-40 attracts fish. Spray a LITTLE on live bait or lures and you will be catching the big one in no time
40) Fire ant bites. It takes the sting away immediately and stops the itch
41) WD-40 is great for removing Crayon from walls. Spray on the mark and wipe with a clean rag
42) If you’ve washed and dried a tube of lipstick with a load of laundry, saturate the lipstick spots with WD40 and rewash Lipstick is gone!
43) If you spray WD-40 on the distributor cap, it will displace the moisture and will allow the car to start
44) Keep a can of WD-40 in my kitchen cabinet over the stove. It is good for oven burns or any other type of burn.
It takes the burned feeling away and heals with NO scarring
Remember, the basic ingredient is FISH OIL
Wednesday, May 19, 2010
How Do Air Ducts Get Dirty
How Do Air Ducts Get Dirty
Compared to years ago when we heated our homes with wood or coal, a modern day heating system is a marvel of efficiency, reliability and convenience, but just like the old time systems these new systems get dirty and need to be cleaned and maintained.
How does an HVAC system Work?
Now you might be thinking “We keep a really clean home, shouldn’t out ducting heating and cooling system be clean to?” To answer that question we have to start by looking at how you’re heating and cooling system works. Think of your homes heating and cooling system as the lungs of your home. The system pulls air from the rooms of your home through the return ductwork, and then the air passes through the filter before reaching the air handler or furnace where it is heated or cooled depending on the season. Once the air is heated or cooled, it is blown through the supply ductwork and back into your home. Some of the components of the furnace are used only during heating, others only during cooling, and others operate all the time. Although the air is filtered, the fact is that filters cannot remove all the contaminants from the air, the system will get dirty through normal use.
HVAC components that get dirty:
* Return air ducts
* Filters
* Blower
* Heat Exchanger
* Cooling coils
* Supply ductwork
Where Does Dust Come From?
So where does dust come from? Consider that up to forty pounds of dust is created each year from in the average six room home, this normal household dust is unavoidable as it is created by everyday living. Every time we open the door, walk across carpeting, scratch out dry skin, or unroll paper towels we contribute to airborne dust. Of course pets and dust emitting activities such as remodeling make the problem worse. In fact, it’s not uncommon to find construction dust in a homes heating and cooling system years after the house was built. On average, this contaminated air recalculates throughout your home five to seven times per day. Why does it matter? This can develop into a serious problem. The build up of these contaminants on components such as blowers and cooling coils can lead not only to unhealthy air for your family to breathe, but also to higher energy bills. These contaminants can cause your system to work harder and run longer shortening the life of your equipment. Perhaps most importantly the heating and air conditioning system needs to be cleaned to provide the thermal comfort you expect.
How Do You Inspect the Heating and Cooling System?
So how clean is the heating and cooling system in your home? Here is a quick way to check. Remove a vent cover and use a mirror and flashlight to look inside. Or use a small digital camera to take a picture of the inside of your duct. If your ducts are dirty it is time to have your air ducts cleaned. Periodic air duct cleaning keeps your homes heating and cooling system clean and operating at peak efficiency.
Compared to years ago when we heated our homes with wood or coal, a modern day heating system is a marvel of efficiency, reliability and convenience, but just like the old time systems these new systems get dirty and need to be cleaned and maintained.
How does an HVAC system Work?
Now you might be thinking “We keep a really clean home, shouldn’t out ducting heating and cooling system be clean to?” To answer that question we have to start by looking at how you’re heating and cooling system works. Think of your homes heating and cooling system as the lungs of your home. The system pulls air from the rooms of your home through the return ductwork, and then the air passes through the filter before reaching the air handler or furnace where it is heated or cooled depending on the season. Once the air is heated or cooled, it is blown through the supply ductwork and back into your home. Some of the components of the furnace are used only during heating, others only during cooling, and others operate all the time. Although the air is filtered, the fact is that filters cannot remove all the contaminants from the air, the system will get dirty through normal use.
HVAC components that get dirty:
* Return air ducts
* Filters
* Blower
* Heat Exchanger
* Cooling coils
* Supply ductwork
Where Does Dust Come From?
So where does dust come from? Consider that up to forty pounds of dust is created each year from in the average six room home, this normal household dust is unavoidable as it is created by everyday living. Every time we open the door, walk across carpeting, scratch out dry skin, or unroll paper towels we contribute to airborne dust. Of course pets and dust emitting activities such as remodeling make the problem worse. In fact, it’s not uncommon to find construction dust in a homes heating and cooling system years after the house was built. On average, this contaminated air recalculates throughout your home five to seven times per day. Why does it matter? This can develop into a serious problem. The build up of these contaminants on components such as blowers and cooling coils can lead not only to unhealthy air for your family to breathe, but also to higher energy bills. These contaminants can cause your system to work harder and run longer shortening the life of your equipment. Perhaps most importantly the heating and air conditioning system needs to be cleaned to provide the thermal comfort you expect.
How Do You Inspect the Heating and Cooling System?
So how clean is the heating and cooling system in your home? Here is a quick way to check. Remove a vent cover and use a mirror and flashlight to look inside. Or use a small digital camera to take a picture of the inside of your duct. If your ducts are dirty it is time to have your air ducts cleaned. Periodic air duct cleaning keeps your homes heating and cooling system clean and operating at peak efficiency.
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
WHO guidelines for indoor HVAC
The World Health Organisation has just published Guidelines on Indoor Air Quality: Dampness and Mould.
It does re-iterate some of the simple virtues of keeping buildings clean and dry, and critically for HVAC systems:
"Several studies have shown that the prevalence of symptoms of sick-building syndrome is often higher in air-conditioned buildings than in buildings with natural ventilation (Mendell, Smith, 1990; Seppanen, Fisk, 2002). One explanation for the association between sick-building syndrome and mechanical heating, ventilating and air-conditioning systems is microbial and chemical pollutants, which are emitted by heating, ventilating and air-conditioning components and ductwork".
You can download a copy of the Guidelines from our website here
There is of course also much emphasis on keeping buildings (and HVAC systems) dry, and on dealing properly with condensation where it is unavoidable e.g. at a cooling coil.
As practical experience shows, the majority of 20th century A/C systems (and a pretty large proportion of those installed in the last few years too) do not have properly designed and installed condensate drain trays and so you get trapped water. This is one of the reasons we've been so keen on Triventek BioBlock to stop microbiological growth where stagnant water cannot be avoided.
It does re-iterate some of the simple virtues of keeping buildings clean and dry, and critically for HVAC systems:
"Several studies have shown that the prevalence of symptoms of sick-building syndrome is often higher in air-conditioned buildings than in buildings with natural ventilation (Mendell, Smith, 1990; Seppanen, Fisk, 2002). One explanation for the association between sick-building syndrome and mechanical heating, ventilating and air-conditioning systems is microbial and chemical pollutants, which are emitted by heating, ventilating and air-conditioning components and ductwork".
You can download a copy of the Guidelines from our website here
There is of course also much emphasis on keeping buildings (and HVAC systems) dry, and on dealing properly with condensation where it is unavoidable e.g. at a cooling coil.
As practical experience shows, the majority of 20th century A/C systems (and a pretty large proportion of those installed in the last few years too) do not have properly designed and installed condensate drain trays and so you get trapped water. This is one of the reasons we've been so keen on Triventek BioBlock to stop microbiological growth where stagnant water cannot be avoided.
Just because you cannot see it, doesn't mean there isn't anything
Here's a fascinating article "Workers Say Courthouse is Unhealthy" from North Carolina, USA, about a problem building.
It seems it hasn't been a great building for 36 years.
Regarding air hygiene, various tests and investigations have been done, but none have produced results convincing enough for the employer/landlord to do anything concrete about duct cleanliness
A couple of quotes from the article:
"Employees also spoke of black, dustlike particles falling from ceiling vents. County officials said that was a concoction of dust and dead skin and was not a health hazard"
“People start wondering what the test results mean,” he [State Health Dept investigator] said. “Interpretation of the results is difficult. (People) want to link mold in the environment to their health issues, and that’s a problem because we don’t have a benchmark for what is safe and unsafe.”
Now take a look at the state of an HVAC diffuser grille and the nearby ceiling as an office employee takes a tape sample for mould / mold
And yes I know some of that dirt is induced from the served area onto the grille vanes and ceiling tiles, but really - how filthy does a building component have to be before somebody says: 'Hey, let's clean this'?
Think of the time and money that's been spent over the years doing investigations, discussing results etc. Is it really that complicated or difficult to see that it's just not right for a system to be that dirty?
It's the old story: just because it's out of sight, does not mean it should be out of mind.
It seems it hasn't been a great building for 36 years.
Regarding air hygiene, various tests and investigations have been done, but none have produced results convincing enough for the employer/landlord to do anything concrete about duct cleanliness
A couple of quotes from the article:
"Employees also spoke of black, dustlike particles falling from ceiling vents. County officials said that was a concoction of dust and dead skin and was not a health hazard"
“People start wondering what the test results mean,” he [State Health Dept investigator] said. “Interpretation of the results is difficult. (People) want to link mold in the environment to their health issues, and that’s a problem because we don’t have a benchmark for what is safe and unsafe.”
Now take a look at the state of an HVAC diffuser grille and the nearby ceiling as an office employee takes a tape sample for mould / mold
And yes I know some of that dirt is induced from the served area onto the grille vanes and ceiling tiles, but really - how filthy does a building component have to be before somebody says: 'Hey, let's clean this'?
Think of the time and money that's been spent over the years doing investigations, discussing results etc. Is it really that complicated or difficult to see that it's just not right for a system to be that dirty?
It's the old story: just because it's out of sight, does not mean it should be out of mind.
Just because you cannot see it, doesn't mean there isn't anything
Here's a fascinating article "Workers Say Courthouse is Unhealthy" from North Carolina, USA, about a problem building.
It seems it hasn't been a great building for 36 years.
Regarding air hygiene, various tests and investigations have been done, but none have produced results convincing enough for the employer/landlord to do anything concrete about duct cleanliness
A couple of quotes from the article:
"Employees also spoke of black, dustlike particles falling from ceiling vents. County officials said that was a concoction of dust and dead skin and was not a health hazard"
“People start wondering what the test results mean,” he [State Health Dept investigator] said. “Interpretation of the results is difficult. (People) want to link mold in the environment to their health issues, and that’s a problem because we don’t have a benchmark for what is safe and unsafe.”
Now take a look at the state of an HVAC diffuser grille and the nearby ceiling as an office employee takes a tape sample for mould / mold
And yes I know some of that dirt is induced from the served area onto the grille vanes and ceiling tiles, but really - how filthy does a building component have to be before somebody says: 'Hey, let's clean this'?
Think of the time and money that's been spent over the years doing investigations, discussing results etc. Is it really that complicated or difficult to see that it's just not right for a system to be that dirty?
It's the old story: just because it's out of sight, does not mean it should be out of mind.
It seems it hasn't been a great building for 36 years.
Regarding air hygiene, various tests and investigations have been done, but none have produced results convincing enough for the employer/landlord to do anything concrete about duct cleanliness
A couple of quotes from the article:
"Employees also spoke of black, dustlike particles falling from ceiling vents. County officials said that was a concoction of dust and dead skin and was not a health hazard"
“People start wondering what the test results mean,” he [State Health Dept investigator] said. “Interpretation of the results is difficult. (People) want to link mold in the environment to their health issues, and that’s a problem because we don’t have a benchmark for what is safe and unsafe.”
Now take a look at the state of an HVAC diffuser grille and the nearby ceiling as an office employee takes a tape sample for mould / mold
And yes I know some of that dirt is induced from the served area onto the grille vanes and ceiling tiles, but really - how filthy does a building component have to be before somebody says: 'Hey, let's clean this'?
Think of the time and money that's been spent over the years doing investigations, discussing results etc. Is it really that complicated or difficult to see that it's just not right for a system to be that dirty?
It's the old story: just because it's out of sight, does not mean it should be out of mind.
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